Laubfrosch

Hi Pipo, that´s no bug. I guess you did it in Fan mode. i.e. FAN First and the first Fixture red LED is blinking, you won´t see a value changed, because this fixture is has no changed values. Remember you see only data of the last selected fixture. :wink: cheers Sven

High Ice, LOL What about a chilli pro 410 and a few remote panels. :twisted: 10 zones, each with 12 Scenes, 3 sequences, preheats, dimmerlaws..... :roll: just kidding....Well nice pics as I see. My design suggestion for the Icetime Lee 180 + Lee201 looks really "cool" :wink: probably add a cosmetic Aqua blue (Lee191) or emerald (Lee 190) cheers Sven

Hi all, an interesting discussion going on here. :wink: Well, here are my statements. I fooled around with the Diablo yesterday. It´s worth its money I think. You got a lot of features competitive products don´t have. You´re right to say the diablo is not that easy like a frog. I guess that wasn´t even the goal for the Diablo. The Diablo, I think, is a nice controller for a kind of "pre programmed patterns" in smaller clubs. The type of clubs where you have a one man show at the counter :twisted: Even the guys who are on the road doing partiemusic AND lights like birthdays, marriages and stuff like that. They work with the same setup every night. These people almost have no time to bother about a "crative" lightshow. They need a reliable controller which is once programmed and than works through all there events. "Turn on and forget. By the way the 4 aux buttons are really great for foggers, strobes....... :wink: cheers Sven

Hi zeb, what about a copy of your chase? 1. program your "running" chase like you want it. 2. make a copy of your origin chase and edit this one the channels which shell illuminate the backdrop all the time. 3. A workaround could be a second memory which sets the "backdrop generics to full. Then you may run the chase as usual. to lit the backdrop just add the scene memory. here we are. I hope this is of help for you getting a better sleep! :wink: cheers Sven

Hi Ian, the demux you described is not too bad I think but....*LOL. I have a few questions about the dimmers. Do they work with standard 0-10V? Some work with negative voltage (Strand!!!) or higher voltages (older german products 0-18V) Have you tried different voltages at the demux? Are the Sub D connectors pinned right? pin 1 of socket is pin 1 of plug? Perhaps silly questions but do help checking your problem. cheers Sven

Hi gress, first of all....A VERY GOOD CHOICE!!!*LOL I won´t start more promotion for the frogs yet, because all other members did it perfect! :wink: Please keep in mind for time synchronized shows you´ll need at least a Leap Frog+ the MIDI/SMPTE hardware as upgrade. You´ll also have to think of your final amount of movinglights and/or scrollers or other effects which need to be programmed as LTPs. If you don´t need more than 48 HTP statics and 24 Fixtures a Leap Frog is giving you the best performance for "Live operating". My personal favorite is the Mambo! :twisted: Up to 96 Fixtures(Single Dims or Movinglights), 73 Playbacks without switching a Submasterpage!!!! :mrgreen: Probably, you should ask your local dealer for a demo. cheers Sven

Hi folks, one of my "funniest" experiences I tell now!*:-) About 14 years ago I did my first tour with Pierre Moerlen´s Gong as backliner. It was a small tour, and so were the venues (Between 100- 1800 guests) There was one really crazy club manager in Speyer,South of Germany, This guy wanted to book the act without limits!!!! The club was build in a cellar for about 80 people stage size a triangle in a corner about 3,5m deep in the center and 4m broad!!!! :twisted: clearence 2,3m!!!! Power was installed esspecially for this gig. We had an 7,49t truck overloaded as usual. Four technicians for the whole production. 2x 3,5kW PA, about 60 PAR64 mixed CP 1k´s and Raylights, an extra monitormix with 6 monitor sends. Monitors were 6x EV FM1502 and 2x double 15"/1" fills. Backline 1x Standard DrumSet, 2x Vibes, 1x Trace BassStack(2x18"/10"), 1x Marshall Top+4x12"",last but not least a giant gong with 1,8m diameter!!!! I stop describing here! Try to imagine the whole stuff on that UUUUUUGE stage!!!! :twisted: The complete desks were setup at the FOH (FOH+Lights+Monitor) Distance FOH to stage ca. 3m!!!!! only snakes were used to plug the instruments to the sound desks. It ended up with 50, in words FIFTY guests!!!! What a imtimous rehearsal!!! It´s only Rock´n Roll,..... :wink: Cheers Sven

Yepp!!! And each channel fader may be patched up to 9 DMX addresses. cheers Sven

Hi Hay...* :twisted: Yepp, that´s the way i do almost. Cheers

Hi Ice, I mean it as Haytech did this nice screenshot. There are a few more options to create a crappy "chase", Probably a mixture of an EFX and a real chase. Ie, prepare a fast quad efx on the right=Step1, Step2 0 same efx but on the left, Step3 = same EFX but right front........choose the Step option for this chase and speed control like you prefere. I hope this helps a little cheers Sven

Hi Ice, did you also try the quad curve? If you choose this one and fool around a little with fan, offset, speed and rotation you´ll get what you want, I think The quad curve does very little stops at the end of every line. Set the position to step and you got these holds a little longer. I haven´t checked it yet, but it should work. cheers Sven

Hi all, I need some specs about the new Diablo. I couldn´t read out of the manual or data sheet.(I might getting older and blind.... :oops: ) Does the diablo also work with 16 bit channels as beamshape, or colour or is it limited to the position attribute for this option? Many thanks Sven

Hi, I don´t know the NJD movers really. You are writing you can´t dim them! So I suppose they don´t have an defined brightness(HTP) channel. In that case there is no other way to get the lanterns off, because all other channels are operating as LTP. Probably a solution is to set the shutter channel as brightness by editing the fixture lib with the Fixture Edit Tool..... :idea: Could you specify the DMX Chart of the NJD? Perhaps there is an better solutions for your problem! cheers Sven

Great!!!! For general shows i´ld prefer to do it with referencing mem/subs then. Because you do have to manage all programming and copiing just once. Afterwards you only have to edit the original Memory and the whole desk/show is updated!!! :wink: Another great tool for touring(the salesman has another PRO Frog feature!!) *LOL Well, K-Nine i Think I organise a beer for you!!! :wink: You`re doing a great job cheers Sven

Hi all, just a silly question of desk philosophy!!! As I read through this topic I had the same idea than Sam. But a step forward. Progamm a mem i.e. No. 999, transfere w. or w.o time onto Sub 1.1, copy Sub 1.1 to Sub 2.1, 3.1 etc. NOW the Question. Does the desk software keep the Sub 1.1 as the original and all Subs which have been copied do still relate or ends the finished copy process the relationship between original and copy. cheers Sven

Oooooops SORRY you´re right!!! I have just checked it on a Fat Frog. :oops: The VGA Monitor doesn´t change to the chosen Attribute. Everything else is like I described in the first and second post. In short form! Using the palette lock during the edit mode, the Attribute is locked FOR SURE!!! :twisted: Cheers Sven

Hi K-Nine, no it´s not the monitor!!! The Monitor and LCD do follow the button presses, but only temporarely. Like it works without the Palette Lock. You see the right things but receive other DMX-Channels. cheers Sven

Hi all, Probably found a small bug relating the "Palette Lock". Facts at first! The desk, LeapFrog, has the SV 9.6 Fixtures 1-4 MAC 600, 5-10 MAC 250 Entour and about 20 Generics. The Leap also runs in "Partial Mode". During programming and editing Memories I noticed a weird behaviour of the "Palette Lock" If activated + playback Memories + changing palettes live, no problem occured. In "Edit Mode" the "Palette Lock" stood at the last choosen attribute, i.e. Position. Even holding down another one like "colour" the pushed palette button activated a "Position Palette despite the displayed colour of the pushed button. I was able to control via wheel only! Going back to the playback mode everything works fine again. :roll: I hope I explained detailed enough? :oops: Cheers Sven

Hi Andy, sounds weird.... Have you used a fresh formatted disc? Sometimes the desks are a little bit tricky. Probably try a real new disk, unzip the actual software to it and go for another attempt. :wink: cheers Sven

Hi Ice, probably an idea which is of help. Try out a breakup gobo and project upwards onto a rotating mirror-tube. a little haze on stage an it should be snow there. :wink: cheers Sven P.S.:An more expansive way is to by a GAM FX with an "SnowFilm"

Hi all, just a silly question. How old are your desks? We had a problem with coemar heads a year ago. The movement was jerky like missing some bits. After testing, changing DMX boards and analysing Keith found some chips which were a little bit out of specs. Probably it´s a simular problem? Cheers Sven

Hi Ian, did you restart the desk after you had plugged the keyboard? The PS2 Keyboards have to be plugged before powering the system Cheers Sven

Hi Pdodo, that´s weird. You should download the actual software 8.x from here and dezip to fresh formatted floppy. This new software disk put in your Frog BEFORE it is turned on!!!! Now plug in your desk and the software update starts automaticly. You have to confirm twice that´s all. That´s the normal way!!!! Almost it´s a broken floppy disk which causes problems. best regards Sven

Hi you two, I also checked the MiniMac Library and I noticed there is no Brightness Attribute given. I think, the Minimac can´t realize a fade with the shutter because the is set to snap by factory default working software. And so even if the shutter/reset channel is set as brightness attribute. Cheers the german runaway in austria :wink:

Hi Pro-Tech. You may do cool things with an DMX Smoker..... When a fixture is spare you could assign a color Scroller and use the HTP for Smoke intensity and the LTP for an optional vent. Now write a mem for smoke output and vent. HTP with a little fade of 1sec and the LTP (vent) as snap. A second mem with no output and a also a 0 for the vent. purchase a double footswitch and set up for the remote socket in the back of your frog!!! 8-pin DIN, refere to the frog manual. Assign your two mems to the switches and you have both hands free for the show. :wink: A little work is needed I guess but you can use your fogger like you are used to. best regards Sven