Brian

Press 'Special', press the flash key and the LCD displays the current function. Subs with scenes on them cycle Flash/Latch/Solo Subs with chases on them cycle Flash/Latch/Go/Beat/Solo You don't need an Off option, if you don't want it to do anything then don't press the button! After all, you don't have an option to disable the DBO button. Yes. Solo is always a destructive override. If it doesn't take then out then it's no different to Flash. I agree about it being a simple desk. It's just that, IMHO, this feature is broken.

Hi Jon, thanks for the reply. Shame it's global - it kinda renders it a 'nice on paper but useless in real life' feature. If you're using the latch option and then need to flash something you lose the latched subs when you change modes.

Jester ML24/48 Is it possible to select different flash modes for different submaster flash buttons or is it a global setting?

I use a small ultrasonic cleaner to clean knobs etc. Mine cost about £20 from CPC, part code SA01944

I've never tried it but you should be able to put the slow fade onto a submaster and then set a long 'Fade Up' time.

Just a thought - it's not that you've got some subs set to 'SNAP' and some to 'FADE' for your colour action is it?

Isn't that a function of the Entours? The change between colours is either stepped or continuous (manual, page 34). The bottom part of the DMX range is for continuous and the upper part for stepped.

Not really the place for this discussion but how do you plan to satisfy your license conditions if you are running a strobe at 15Hz?

I am constantly amazed at the interest in what is in reality a totally useless game. My mobile has better ones on it than that. Can I log a feature request please? Remove Frog Run from the code.

Different filtering arrangements, which are there to prevent the dimmer causing interference to other systems, and different firing arrangements, which are how the dimmer controls the on/off switching of the thyristors/triacs (the devices which actually contol the 'power'), can all cause varying amounts of leakage. Actually, thinking about it, the Betapack 1s do have a preset pre-heat adjustment inside. It night be worth getting a competent engineer to check that they don't need adjusting. My previous statements about leakage still apply though.

Hi Josh it's not pre-heat as such but leakage. The mirrorball motor takes such a tiny current that there is enough 'stray' current coming through the dimmer. even when off, to make it turn. The usual solution is to put something like a 500W lantern on the same channel.

The receiver unit with an XLR4 male connector added for power input and a flying lead to the locking DIN to connect to the remote socket on the desk... The front of the unit... For the power supply I tapped ontp the back of my desk light, making a cable clamp in the side of the connector. I didn't go the inline adaptor route as detailed above as it felt a bit flimsy.... The unit plugged up at the back of the desk... I hope this is of use. If anyone needs any more details then please ask.

If anyone is feeling lazy, the people who make the modules used above make complete units. I've just bought one of these... ...which is a 3 output unit. Available from CPC in the UK under part number RF00017. This is an AM unit but they also do FM units and units with different numbers of outputs. I'll update this post when I've had a chance to wire it in.

Might it not be that having seen parameter level programming appear, people who are waiting for the above features assumed that they are coming and decided not keep posting on the same subject over and over again?

Ah thanks. So the DMX bit in the product description is DMX In and doesn't do anything on a Frog range desk.

Is there any information available on what this kit enables you to do when fitted to a Leap Frog?

There is an odd display bug in the new software when adding subfixtures. The various windows 'break' each other. In fact, some of what you can see is from a different program. Note the half-hidden buttons. Click the link for a full resolution version. http://www.aux99.co.uk/blue-room/Screen_Bug.jpg

I use Spider Engineering, http://www.spider-engineering.co.uk, but any casemaker will do you one.

Soemthing like these... http://www.strandarchive.co.uk/lanterns/nocturne.html ...they use a linear lamp (just like your typical outdoor security light) and have a reflector that is shaped to distribute the light evenly down a cyc.

The problem with using any light source which generates a conical beam of light is that when you point it down the cyc you end up with a tapered area of light which gets wider top to bottom (if top lit). That's why in theatre or tv we use proper cyc floods. For the size you have I guess you don't have much room around the cyc. If you must use the sources you have then you could try having an equal number top and bottom you should be able to even out the spread. The beams will need to overlap. Warning - very bad ascii art follows.... O O ^ ^ -------/-----//-----/---Top of Cyc / // / / // / / // / / // / ---/-----//-----/-------Bottom V V O O where O is your light soure and ---------------- is the top and bottom of the cyc.

Is there any merit into giving the Mambo the ability to duplicate DMX addresses for conventional fixtures?

Which you can do using the software ice mentioned. Create your own empty fixture file and import just the fixtures you want. Or make you own 'Common Fixture File' with just those fixtures in so that only those are available in the desk.

Well your DMX maths is OK. I've had problems in the past using 'accessibly priced' units where the DIP switches work 'the wrong way round' ie ON = '0' and OFF = '1', or was is the other way round. I'd try inverting the logic in your switch settings.

IIRC the 'Pause' button halts the crossfade from one memory in the stack to the next, it doesn't halt a chase running from the stack. To do what you want I think you'd need to make a live adjustment to the chase running and switch it's 'drive' to manual or drop it's speed down.

It's possible that it's the battery but it doesn't feel like it. A new battery is cheap and easy to get so it might be worth swapping it anyways. What it sound like is a loose connection inside the desk. ICs mounted in sockets have a habit of working themselves loose after a while as they heat up and cool down. Gently giving each of them a good push will normally reveal at least one which goes back into it's socket with a satisfying 'creak/crunch'. Or could it be the mode switch is dirty? Again, fairly easy to get hold of and replace.