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Everything posted by kgallen
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You'll need to patch this unit as 5 separate fixtures. If the unit has "common" channels, you'll need one fixture definition for that bit, then a fixture definition for the "repeated" part that is applied 5 times. This allows you to do things like P/T fans and colour sweeps across the unit as a whole. Have a search of the FLX forum, Jon and Edward have covered this approach several times to similar questions on multi-part units. It's something that is due to change in a future software release - but don't wait on this coming!
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Page 18 for Chase playbacks: https://zero88.com/manuals/FLX S User Manual v1.pdf PhantomZerOS:
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Sorry to bang on about this again... I really think you should flatten the hierarchy of the Knowledgebase and definately remove the separation of Legacy products from current and put into a single product type. i.e. put ALL lighting consoles from the birth of Christ to current day under a single Consoles listing. Put the software there too. I'm a Zero88 die-hard and I know what is current product and what is legacy and I still have to hunt around the Knowledgebase to find what I'm looking for - and I KNOW what I'm looking for and that it exists. If I go Legacy Products , your most popular product to date (I suspect), the Frog series, is not even listed under the Legacy Console heading! It's there when you push down again into Legacy Consoles page if you haven't already given up looking or didn't realise the heading was a link. I was just helping a BlueRoom member with Fat Frog and I wanted to provide some links to manuals/software etc. This was TOO HARD! That non-Zero88-born-and-bred would have no chance. He doesn't know if Fat Frog is current or legacy - and he doesn't care - or that the manual is quite out of date or that the latest software should be 10.12 and the release notes are full of really essential information. He would give up and go back to BR and moan about "how bad and unusable" Zero88 products are and they don't do what he needs or what the manual says so the software must be full of bugs etc etc. We don't want that of course, because we know that is not true!!! What I'm saying is the organisation of the Knowledgebase is not good for a USER even if the partitioning works wonderfully for you Zero88 chaps. Simplify it so a novice user can go Consoles -> Fat Frog (for example) and be there with everything he needs. All Consoles -> [null/Fat/Bull/Leap/Mambo] Frog [Box] links would go to the same Frog page with everything on it. Same for Jester, Solution, ORB, FLX ranges (and then console links to ZerOS likewise). But -> you do need to clarify Leap products at that page level because of the Frog/ZerOS variant confusion, viz Consoles -> Leap Frog (green) and Consoles -> Leap Frog 48/96 (blue) [or whatever it is!]. Hiding the "old stuff" isn't going to make people buy a new product from you, if anything it will drive them away. Please please please please please! Edit: Also can you put the darn manuals on the KB. It should be there, at the top on the page for the console. Just linked one for the FLX S. Is it on the KB, no. Is it on the Consoles splash screen, no (just the Quick Start). Is it on the bottom FLX S page? Yes, thank f* for that!
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Optimal Screen Resolution for Phantom ZerOs / External Monitor
kgallen replied to MatthewD's topic in FLX S24 & FLX S48
Ditto. I certainly struggle to use PhantomOS effectively (on a desktop PC with two sizeable pro screens) - screen readability and having to use the mouse to click virtual buttons (and right click to hold the shift key and all that). It's just a simile of what we had for the Frog range of desks, which had the same usability quirks. As I understand it (it's written here somewhere on the Frog forum), the Frog version was a tool that the software team developed for internal use and it got punted out to the user-base as a cheap/easy way to provide an "off-line editor" for the common user. For me though it was never designed from the outset as a usable off-line editor. Hence PhantomOS... Sorry Zero88 chaps... -
Yes, install on a Windoze PC...
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Oh come on! You've got a pretty basic fixture: R,G,B,W,A,UV colours, a dimmer and a strobe. Here's one I made for a similar fixture, it's probably pretty close to the one you've got, so probably not that much to change! Use the "Performer 18 Quad : 8 channel mode" as a starting point... LEDJ_P18Q_S7Q5_S9Q8.ift
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If you're in a big hurry, use the Fixture Tools provided by Zero88 to write your own fixture definition. See here, there are instructions too:
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Select light. Z key. First encoder.
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See: https://www.zero88.com/manuals/zeros/cues-playbacks/playing-back-cues/rgb-colour-mixing-on-playbacks
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If you have a cue at blue, then a blackout on that fixture then a cue at white then this should be handled automatically by move on dark. However you need to make sure the blackout is a tracked cue not a "Save All" cue, which is the mistake I've made in the past!
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Hi Richard, Brilliant work for giving this comprehensive feedback - I have some sympathy with some of your observations, particularly the messaging/error feedback. (In my experience of using lots of very expensive commercial software at work, this need has to be driven in detail in the requirements: if you just leave it up to the software engineers to code something ‘useful’ then the quality of the message depends on how much the coder sits in the users shoes and really understands what information they need for the particular issue). Some of your symptoms suggest old software to me - are you using 7.9.4 ? Welcome to FLX anyway, good to have you ‘on board’, Regards, Kevin
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Basic Networking Guide - FLX & ZerOS Remote
kgallen replied to Uriahdemon's topic in General Discussion
Sorry, I don't know. However I will be interested in the answer from Edward as I might end up investing in CAPTURE soon too... Sorry I can't help any more! -
Basic Networking Guide - FLX & ZerOS Remote
kgallen replied to Uriahdemon's topic in General Discussion
Maybe you've been pointed to this page already, if not, maybe this helps? http://support.zero88.com/Legacy-products/Legacy-Consoles/Legacy-ZerOS/ORB-XF/996119181/How-to-connect-apps-to-ZerOS-iOS.htm -
Use SETUP+PB button and set the shifted option to Pause. Then button=GO, shift+button=Pause/Back
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See here: http://support.zero88.com/Legacy-products/Legacy-Consoles/Legacy-ZerOS/ORB-XF/975056031/Compatible-touchscreen-monitors-with-ZerOS-consoles.htm I think I've got the Iiyama 1731SR-B which is the one that Zero88 use for their training and demos etc.
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On my FLX (not FLX S), I connect the touch screen to one (rear) USB port, then in the other (rear) USB port I have a 4-way Belkin unpowered hub with keyboard, mouse and sometimes USB stick (usually I use the USB port on the top of the FLX for the USB stick). Zero88 would recommend a powered hub, but if you're sensible with what you attach I think you're ok for an unpowered one in the keyboard/mouse application. Jon/Edward may disagree. It's possible the different USB ports can support different power requirements, but certainly on FLX I know Jon said they did lots of USB power load testing... Mileage may vary slightly on FLX S - I don't know how many USB ports are on the S24 or S48.
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I recon this is RDM data that is not handled by the fixture. If you want to use RDM (RigSync) I think you can work around this by addressing the non-tolerant fixtures higher up the DMX address range. Jon mentioned this in some post a while back, something like above address 200. I'll see if I can find the post. Lots of my "cheapo/£200-range" fixtures are not tolerant to RDM packets. ETA: My post crossed with Edward's above. His is, as usual, a much better answer!
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USB Problem Solution/LeapFrog48 with SW 7.9.3
kgallen replied to Mathias Boschen's topic in Solution & Solution XL
If you're logged in to the Forum, see if you have a "Software Testing and Beta Releases" section under "PRODUCT SUPPORT - SOFTWARE". The 7.9.4.7 Beta is listed under there. If not, worth dropping Jon an email: JonHole@eaton.com -
Yes do the same I guess!
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Hi Matt, You can find 7.9.3 here:
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Depending on the DMX details of the SunStrip, you need to identify the "unique" bit and the bit that is repeated per segment. The per-segment bit is probably just RGB, so just patch "n" consecutive generic RGB fixtures from the first DMX address of the first degment. For the "unique" bit - which will have some control channels specific to the model of SunStrip - you need a fixture definition just for this bit. This might already be in the library, if not then send a link to the manual to FixtureSupport@Zero88.com explaining what you want to do, and they'll make up the fixture definition parts you need. If you search the forum for sunstrip there have been a few queries related to yours, so these might help or point you in the right direction. Kevin
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Your monitor needs to support DVI-D because the desk doesn't output DVI-A or VGA. Most half-decent computer monitors should support DVI-D. The NEC LCD2170NX I'm using now on this PC is about 10 years old and it has DVI-D. It doesn't need to be touch screen. Datasheet: https://www.zero88.com/datasheets/FLX_S48_Datasheet_UK_Rev2_0418.pdf
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Did you plug the USB cable back in as well as the DVI-D?
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I recently had an issue with one of our Betapack 1's where there was some instability/flicker on channels 3 and 4. Tonight I've tracked that down to loose nuts on the mains inlet - not the ones on top of the phase joining bar, but the ones *underneath* that clamp the M6 bolts to the metal phase plates on the PCB. You will only find this by removing the phase joining bar which otherwise holds the three bolts locked together (assuming the top nuts are tight which are the easy ones to check!). Pair of 10mm spanners to tighten. Check all three phases and the neutral too, as whilst phase 2 was distinctly loose on mine, phase 3 and the neutral also needed a tweak. There should be spring washers in place too under the nuts. Diagnosed by having some lamps plugged in and tapping around the case with the rubber handle end of a screwdriver and seeing some flicker and hearing a little buzzing/crackling every now and again! Recording for the reference of others competent to remove the rear panel - danger, mains voltages, unplug/isolate before doing so!