kgallen

Probably the battery. Do you know if this has ever been changed in the 12 years? If not, then you might have an early unit with a Varta cell which needs soldering... See: http://zero88.com/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/View/546/31/replacement-battery-information If your FF has black DMX sockets then see: http://zero88.com/forum/topic/7384-internal-memory-issue/#entry28968 If it has silver DMX sockets (hence the Varta cell), ring Keith at Zero88. Regards, Kevin

Hi John, I think a similar scenario came up recently with move-on-dark look-ahead with jump cues. Take a look at this topic: http://zero88.com/forum/topic/7386-move-in-dark-problems-when-jumping-cues/#entry28970 If it looks the same scenario as your needs then there is an enhancement request now in place: http://zero88.com/forum/topic/7386-move-in-dark-problems-when-jumping-cues/#entry29000 HTH. Regards, Kevin

You have to use an *active* DVI-D to VGA converter. The desk doesn't give analogue outputs on the DVI pins (it's DVI-D not DVI-A) so you can't just use a connector style converter. Kevin

For manuals, best to link as you have. To upload, need to click the "More Reply Options" tab at the bottom right when doing "Reply". Then you use "Choose file" and then remember to click "Attach This File"! I need to work out how to do those multiple quote boxes that Jon does on reply! I fiddled on my last reply but just couldn't get it to work! As you're a new member your Personal Messenger doesn't seem to work - maybe you need 10 or so posts before this gets enabled - bet you're about there now!

Hi Andy, Some questions not clear without the manual - can you link it? The 4 channel mode uses a dimming algorithm internal to the fixture. In theory this should be better (i.e. smoother) than the desk just scaling the R/G/B values. On a cheap fixture there might not be much difference, but on a "professional" fixture, the internal dimmer should be much better suited to dimming LED elements. Give it a go! I dont understand Channel 8 - would need to look at the manual. Sounds a bit awkward having a "config" setting at the top end of the dimmer channel - I try to avoid those! I see Jon's just posted - as he says, you can't just casually ignore DMX addresses the fixture will decode, because if you patch it and take 7 DMX addresses, then the fixture channel 8 will respond to DMX data you intended for another dimmer or fixture listening at that address. Define the parameter or use "DMX Allocate" to say you need 8 DMX addresses but are only defining the function of 7 of them. Personally I'd define it but not use it. Remember to allocate it to a wheel though. No idea what Ch7 is all about - again, would need the manual. Kevin I think this is the unit? http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1685456.pdf Ch7 ID is a sub-addressing feature for controllers with limited DMX address range. Your LeapFrog has 2 DMX universes, I can't see you needing this feature unless you intend buying a lot of these fixtures (please don't!) Map it as a Beamshape parameter just to keep it under control, with Home=0. Ch8 I'd map as a "Beamshape" parameter, then at least you have control over that channel so there is no chance of it going haywire, and you can dial up the delayed-response feature if you fancied. ps - Good luck, I don't think you'll find those cheap LED units based on standard 5mm or 10mm LEDs much use. Maybe a bit of on-stage eye candy, but pretty much no use for lighting actors (no beam as such, multicolour shadows, poor overall brightness, horrible RGB white...).

The image is not of any use for LeapFrog, but show up during fixture selection on FLX (and probably the other higher-end Z88 consoles), so I like to include it :-) I'm glad you're using the Fixture Editor - it's really easy to put together your own fixture. The "defaults" that I've picked up from Jon along the way include: - Dimmer Special=Dimmer, Home=255 - For any fixture or mode that does not include a Dimmer channel as a mapped DMX address, then add a Dimmer and set it to "virtual" and mark all of the R/G/B/W/A/UV etc as scaled by virtual intensity. - Red, Green, Blue set the Special to Red-Positive etc and Home=255 (==RGB white) - White or Amber or UV set the Special to Other Colour and Home=0 - Cyan, Magenta, Yellow set Home=0 (==white as subtractive) - Hue set Home=0, Sat set Home=255 - Any generalised "colour macro" is named "Color1" - harks back to the MAC500 type fixtures I think. - Filling in DMX ranges and "colour defined" and "is dark" on the Detail tab is used on the FLX and higher consoles - Strobes and similar beam operations go under Beamshape - For the Frog and Jester series make sure you allocate parameters to 3-wheel groups. To support the Illusion series, allocate the 4-wheel groups too. - The "long name" of the fixture needs a constant root part then the channel variants after a colon - The "short name" is used by the Frog (and Jester?) consoles I tend to make the most complex mode first then copy and strip down for the other modes. Remember to correct the "DMX allocate" value for only the required number of DMX addresses. http://zero88.com/forum/topic/7375-spotlight-fresneled150-rgbw-fixture-profile/#entry28927 http://zero88.com/forum/topic/7329-fixture-request-flx/#entry28698

ZOS-6982 - tick ZOS-6983 - tick Predictable really, I know, sorry! (But all in good time, of course, there are plenty of things already on that "list" I'm sure!) Rob - looks like 3 releases away earliest, so could be around a year?

BlueRoom recently had a topic on Channels 5 and 6 flickering. http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=66529 Turned out to be a missing jumper on one of the 120V/240V selection headers, so worth checking these are still in place (there are two on a Betapack1) if you have this issue.

Cameo Studio PAR 64 RGBW (the one in the library is incorrect apparently). All 5 mode options (2ch, 3 modes 1 and 2, 4ch, 7ch). Regards, Kevin cameo_par_rgbw.ift

If this is the manual for your Cameo Studio PAR 64 RGBW: http://adamhall.invaliddomain.de/out/media/downloads/MARKEN/CAMEO/CLPST64Q8W/CLPST64Q8W_Cameo_Bedienungsanleitung_EN_DE_FR_ES_IT_PL.pdf Then here is a fixture file [see bottom of this post] for all 5 modes (2ch, 3ch x2, 4ch, 7ch)... (you'll need to shorten the IFT file filename for a floppy, sorry!). Copy it onto a floppy. On the desk: 1. Go into Super User (hold + and - and press Enter) 2. Desk Setup 3. Assign Fixtures 4. Use + and - to pick a fixture number -> lets use 1... 5. Down arrow (V) 6. Minus (-) -> "Select Fixture from Floppy Disk" 7. Enter 8. + and - to list "Cameo" 9. Down arrow (V) 10. + and - to select the fixture variant you want - let's say the 7 channel one 11. Enter. Should now see the yellow LED lit in Fixture button 1. 12. Up arrow (^) (now on "Exit"), Enter Now need to patch the fixture to the required DMX address. 13. Down, Down (on "Patch Functions"), Enter 14. I tend to use Manual Patch... 15. Click the Fixture 1 button (red LED will light), this should jump the patch list down to Fixture 1. 16. You now need to set the DMX address for your Cameo PAR. Let's say "49". You can press "+" and the desk will give you "049" which is the next available address after the 48 generic channels. If you've got an external keyboard attached, you can type the DMX start address. Whatever method, this number needs to match the one you've set on the back of the Cameo PAR unit. 17. Down arrow (on "Exit"), Enter 18. Up arrow (on "Exit"), Enter 19. Down x5 (on "Exit Desk Setup"), Enter 20. "Desk Setup Modified. Save Changes?" [OK] Enter 21. Up arrow (on "Exit Super User"), Enter OK assignment and patch done. Click "Outputs" button (I'm hoping you've got an external monitor attached). Click Fixture 1 button - red LED comes on and Monitor should now show "Fixture 1: Cameo StPAR RGBW : 7 ch" If you press the "Home" button then the PAR should come on at full brightness RGB "white". You will see under "Fixture Brightness Outputs" that 01 has "FF" under it (FF=full) and under the "Fixture 1" banner, Dimmer 100%, Red 255, Gree 255 Blue 255 White 0 Color1 0 Strobe 0. The Wheel LCD middle wheel has "Dimmer 100%" above it. Play with the wheel. Click "Colour" button. Wheel LCD now has Red, Green, Blue. Click the Colour button again, now you get White and Color1 (i.e. a second "page" of colour attributes). Click "Beamshape", middle wheel has Strobe. Play with the colours and strobe. When you're happy, set up your generics on the faders, click Program and you've saved your first cue of generics and fixtures! Here endeth the first lesson. Sorry if you already knew most of this........! Kevin cameo_studio_par64_rgbw.ift

Hi Andy, Glad you got the desk up and running! Also glad you got the floppy working on the PC as it sounds like we need to build a new fixture definition for your PAR! I'd recommend patching your LED PAR as a fixture - otherwise you'll eat up 6 (or 7 or whatever it needs) of your faders for each unit which means you'll struggle to keep 2-preset operation for your generics. Also accessing strobes and other functions of your LEDs is much easier as a fixture and you can use colour palettes! Don't panic it will all become second nature soon! Regards, Kevin Tried to PM you, but seems you need a few more posts first before your messenger is enabled. If you like, do you want a phone chat on this?

Hi Andy, I've had my FatFrog since 2006 (from new) and I've changed the battery twice. The original battery fitted in the desk lasted easily 5 years maybe more. The replacement one I installed, even though it was a known brand (maybe Duracell) lasted less than 3 years before I lost my show cues as mentioned above - which was why it was a surprise as I knew the cell hadn't been in "that long". The desk battery monitor doesn't work well with the coin cells presumably because of their voltage discharge profile (I think the circuit was designed for the Varta supercaps used in earlier designs). My desk always said "battery ok" even when the cell was exhausted and I'd lost memory contents. The indicator for me is always that the time/date has gone bonkers, then I know I'm going to lose data the next time the desk is switched off. I'm now working on a 3 year maximum, but should probably replace after 2 years. As you say, they are dirt cheap and relatively easy to replace. I've now moved on to an FLX, and since this is a new product, and new for me, we still have to work out how its battery performs... yikes! Good luck! Kevin If you really wanted to swap the floppy for USB, then I believe this "i889900" version works in the Frogs. At your own risk though, I have no experience of them. If you search the Z88 Forum (or Blueroom Forum) you will find a fair few people who've done the conversion. The floppy drive in my FF has been faultless so I've not been tempted to change it. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231653390847?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Also whilst I'm here, download and have a read of the Release Notes. Lots of features have been added since the Manual. The RN's are very readable but you will have to mentally "splice" them into your brain and be aware of features that evolved over the 10.9 thru 10.12 releases and make sure you understand the latest "version" of each piece of functionality as you go through the releases. All good stuff though. http://zero88.com/support/index.php?/Knowledgebase/Article/GetAttachment/56/554 Even if you don't want to get into tracking, I'd get familiar with things like "Grab Mode" though - that can be very useful during a show! Blueroom topic on USB emulators. As Jon says in that thread, not supported by Z88! http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=50532

From the manual p42 so long as you selected universe 2 when you patched the fixtures then you should be good. A universe is just another independent set of 512 DMX channels so it's just a patching action on the desk, your LED lights will just have an address in the 1-512 range on their setting. In the Edit Fixtures screen under the DMX column you should see entries like 2/xxx where xxx is your fixture DMX address, manual p45. Can you plug your LED PAR straight into the universe 2 socket on the desk just to get it going? Kevin

Hi Andy, You can buy a USB floppy drive for 8 quid and plug into your computer. Much less hassle and risk than trying to find a paged USB drive that fits and works in your Frog. http://www.amazon.co.uk/External-USB-Floppy-Drive-Black/dp/B00095KY7U (this was just the first I found on a quick Google). If you want, PM me your address and I'll post you a couple of floppy's, one with 10.12 on. Kevin With a flat battery you might find some of your show is there but later cues have disappeared. I've had this... at a Dress Rehearsal! Get that battery changed pronto!

Here you go Jonny. 4, 6, 8 channel modes. Regards, Kevin Stairville_QPAR5x8RGBW.ift

I don't see the point cues in the (draft) manual, but Jon says it here: http://zero88.com/forum/topic/7148-missing-features/#entry27904

Hi Rob, Sounds good. Think you've done what you can. Looks like a new 'use case' for the software to consider. You're too good at this - you should be answering Forum posts now! Sorry, over to Jon! Regards, Kevin Sure you know, but you can have 99 'point' cues, i.e. 9.01 to 9.99 between cue 9 and 10.

Hi Rob, Just a thought as you're online now... Is cue 9 configured to jump to cue 200 next or are you at cue 9 and then go-load 200 (as in hold go and type 200)? Not saying there should be a difference, but since the desk 'looks ahead' for MOD maybe the issue? Kevin Just looked in the manual: In cue 9 go to the right column Cue Setup and set Next to 200, then see if you still have the problem. I'd interpret that as a bug if you do as the desk now has the information to look ahead to cue 200 for MOD.

Hi Andy, Welcome to the world of Frog, you'll love it! You will need a CR2032 battery (very common, get on the High Street). Place the desk on a table with the rear (the connector panel) facing you. Remove only 1 screw per side, it's the lowest screw in the curved rear metal silver side. The bottom panel will want to drop down, so support it. It's best to get some help as you will want to support the front panel whilst you access the PCB battery holder. You need to try to flick out the old coin cell - might need gentle help with a knife or small flat screw driver. Click in the new cell. Reassemble the desk, ensuring the bottom plate metal fingers are correctly located in the front of the desk, lifting the back into place and replacing the screws. Power up the desk and set the time/date. Make sure you're running software 10.12 (http://zero88.com/support/index.php?/de/Knowledgebase/List/Index/256/software). If you want to test all of the buttons, holding F1 down as you power the desk will get you into a test mode. Flash buttons 1-14 select faders to test and Step button tests the LEDs. Common fixtures are stored in flash, not battery-backed RAM, that's why they're still there. Anything else - just ask on the Forum! Good luck. Kevin I believe this indicates your desk was the 13th LeapFrog built in week 46 of 2002. I'd PM Keith with the serial number and ask him for the master lock code for that desk.

I should have asked about the hire. Are they providing the package, in which case the hiring company should sort this for you and provide a working setup. If you're adding the keyboard and or monitor then as above!

Yes, sorry Rob that was a bit of a distraction. Can only suggest the obvious for the monitor problem: to try different USB ports for both keyboard and monitor USB, keyboard brands and to recalibrate the monitor touch via Setup on the desk. Also to check for software 7.8.5. I have my monitor USB in a rear socket next to the DVI port. It's a Logitech keyboard and the recommended touchscreen (ProLight T1731). The keyboard is via a 4-port Belkin hub with the mouse into the second rear socket. After that, I'm as stuck as you.... Kevin

Proves you have the code to unlock it! It's a bit like the Yale/mortice door lock situation - whoops I've left my keys in the house and just shut the (Yale) front door! I think on balance, personally I'd keep the code-to-lock situation, particularly if I was hiring the desk.

Jonny, Can you link the manual here? Please always do this so we can be sure to build the correct profile. Please also indicate which modes you want prioritised - some fixtures are extremely complicated and building all modes can be very time consuming. It's a bit hectic for me this week, but I'll try and get around to building the profile in the next couple of days unless someone else beats me to it. Thanks, Kevin

For Blueroom user Biskit (http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showuser=6082) from this thread: http://www.blue-room.org.uk/index.php?showtopic=66445 Note: Contains 16-bit colour channels on one variant. Manual: http://www.spotlight.it/file.asp?file=/files/prodotto/manuale/Manuali/FOGL-UE-FNLED150-RGBW_IE_low.pdf spotlight_fresneled150rgbw.ift

We had our Tech/LX plot over the weekend, using the FLX, and first Dress last night. 7.8.5 software. Most was good with the FLX regards programming - worked very well. Much less stressful than with the Fat Frog now I've a fair few LED fixtures and needed to be using Tracking. Some usability comments (Tracking-Advanced with SmartTag): - Overall very good! - Groups from the touchscreen were a God-send. - Shift-Record great for blocking cues. - Record <num> Name <type> great for a one-pass record/name. - Update <num> worked a treat. - UDK4 with some strobes on, nice! However, I'm not sure it always released all channels as I expected when the button was released - but couldn't reproduce what I thought I saw, will keep an eye on this. - Auto-palettes on LEDs, great! Some more display niggles however: - The green and yellow bars do get in a muddle when you're programming i.e when there are no cues after the one currently being worked on and both bars are at the bottom of the cue list screen. - There's a "half line" problem where there is a vertical line misalignment and this causes the previous two cue lines to get obscured - needs some up/down arrows to get that sorted and the list redrawn. - When doing a Shift-Record, the just-programmed cue become current - fine. However, when just doing Record, the previous cue stays current and it needs a Go to get to the same place as Shift-Record would. This might be as intended but it's inconsistent. Also the yellow next bar jumps back up to the first cue (because there are no more following, so the first cue is "next"). This is a pain during programming when you want to update fade times in the just-recorded cue - need to do an up-up operation (because cue 0 appears) to get back to the last one just programmed so you can spreadsheet edit the timing parameters. Playing back the cue stack at Dress, the current/next cue are centred on the cue list and this works fine as does on-the-hoof spreadsheet edit of fade times. Button feel is nice. Double-click seems a bit variable on the master Go. When programming, needed to do a very positive/separated Go-Go to move forward. But during the Dress I did a bit of a half-baked press on one cue and skipped a cue and had to go back in the cue list. I had some AND issues, where I'd type 56 AND 57 but the following action only applied to 57 for some reason. This was when I'd got a number of selects in the programmer - selected a couple of groups via the touchscreen, then needed to add 56 AND 57. Often 56 didn't get the @ or the touchscreen palette selection. This happened a few times. As commented in another thread, one USB on the front is awkward when you want a desk light and want to save to USB stick. I have a small Belkin 4-port USB hub for keyboard and mouse in a rear port, and plugging the USB stick in there wasn't always detected. Also have touchscreen USB in the other rear desk port. Mouse pickup on the screen is a bit slow - have to wiggle the mouse a bit to get the desk to respond to it. Not too much of an issue as didn't need the mouse during programming. External keyboard no issues and worked well for cue naming. Only got bit by the ENTER-starts-to-edit-the-cue-number once! Nice to be able to record a part cue (73.5 in my case) before subsequent cues (e.g. 74) has been programmed. (Couldn't do this on FatFrog and it was a bit of a pain [needed to program a junk following cue first before being able to insert the part cue], as I come prepared with a lighting cue synopsis with numbered cue list and draft marked-up script but sometimes the director wants to add an extra cue or two during Tech).